Captured
My friend Nadin and I both have a passion for photography and wild places. So when we traveled together through the Alps, we ended up capturing images of us capturing images at many stops along the way! Here’s Nadin on the approach to Castle Neuschwanstein, from this blog post right here.
Bavaria, Germany, 2014.
Ötztal Valley
The Ötztal Vallery in the Austrian Tyrol is an incredible landscape and one where the people work the land all the way up to the top of these mountains. This is a scene heading north from Längenfeld, towards the Innsbruck region. Early May and the weather is still very unpredictable – we encountered almost all of it, but thankfully the snow kept to the mountain tops.
See more from this valley in my previous posts here and here.
Ötztal Valley, Austria, 2014.
Overnight in Längenfeld
After our journey to the Ötztal Valley, we stayed at Haus Birkenheim in Längenfeld. A short walk for food or thermal baths, this family run b&b was very comfortable and again, had that warm coziness I experienced all around this region. Furnishing are wood and cloth, soft earthy tones and calming decor. Until you walk upstairs and check out the taxidermy collection! I was also very interested in the Alpen man on the wall board — pegs stuck in with names, but of whom? A portrait of the family children greets you at the entrance. The common room – the stubbe – felt like a family den at a lake cabin – the smell of woodsmoke was in the air and the typical breakfast of cheese, breads, coffee and fruit was a delight. The view from our room was the one above, and waking up that morning to clear peaks and dancing shadows was the perfect start to another day in the Tyrol.
Längenfeld, Tyrol, Austria, 2014.
Into the Tyrol
Carrying on southwards from our last stop in Bavaria, the autobahn takes us across the border into Austria and the Tyrol region. Growing up, I had a very strong association with the Tyrol (and Bavaria for that matter) from my grandparents strong ties to this region. They brought to Canada with them this Alpen identity, a deep love of the outdoors, gardening and enjoying the splendors of nature. My grandmother’s (and great-grandmother’s) recipe book was filled to the brim with delicious foods from the region, and we were always lucky to enjoy her cooking and baking when visiting them in North Van, while we still lived in Calgary. Seeing these Alps and valleys, with farms perched atop the meadows way up high and the familiar comforts of the cozy architecture and warm people, filled my heart.
We drove south into the Ötztal valley, where the famous Ötzi iceman mummy was discovered, and made it to Längenfeld for the evening. Along the way, we encountered a completely magical forest — the greens were so rich even my rainforest-tuned eyeballs went overboard taking in these new hues. The meeting of the valleys reminded me of the Similkameen in BC — steep mountains cascading down to the fertile lands below, the rich soil nurturing food for the community and beyond. Clouds stuck to the peaks, occasionally opening up to water the fields of wildflowers. Sunlight dappled a mountain top, then went into hiding again only to return moments later down the valley.
We ate at a traditional Tyrol restaurant – Cafe-Restaurant Alt-Längenfeld – in Längenfeld, a place that resembled a ski lodge and family room combined. The food was excellent and of course the beer was still mighty fine across the mountain pass. Austria has a few nice radlers to try as well, including the Almradler featuring a tandem bicycle couple on the can. From there it was a must to relax in the thermal pools of Aqua Dome before retiring for the night. With the hiking and history of this valley, it’s a place one could stay for a week or more. Very relaxing, incredibly beautiful and during the shoulder season anyways a peaceful spot to rest.
Tyrol, Austria, 2014.
(click the first image to view all large – recommended!)
Previously: A Visit to Kloster Andechs, Southern Bavaria, A Horse, Of Course.
A Horse, Of Course
A carriage horse waits in the village to take visitors up to the 19th century Neuschwanstein Castle in southern Bavaria. See more from Bavaria here & here.
Germany, 2014.
Southern Bavaria
Traveling from Munich to Castle Neuschwanstein and the Schwangau/Ostallgäu area of southern Bavaria, near the German border with Austria, and the rolling hills quickly become snowy peaks. May Poles and painted houses appear in every village, fields of butter yellow flowers carpet the approach to the Alps and a misty cloud cover keeps the sky low and the light ever-changing. In the image above you can see two castles – Neuschwanstein & Hohenschwangau, a typical Bavarian church with the ‘onion top’, blooming meadows and an Alpen peak emerging from the clouds. A lot to take in from one vantage point! We escaped the downpour at Neuschwanstein and ducked into a café on Alpsee for some strudel and coffee, admiring the rocky bluffs along the lakeshore and considering our next move. With the weather socked in further north and heading our way, it was soon to be southwards into Austria and the Tyrol for our next adventure.
Bavaria, Germany, 2014.
More from Bavaria: A Visit to Kloster Andechs.
Sea To Summit Trail
The recently opened Sea to Sky Gondola on Howe Sound just south of Squamish has introduced a host of alpine exploration for those who’d rather take a tram up the mountain. We chose to hike the Sea to Summit trail instead, reserving our gondola ride for the way down. Starting at the gondola base, the trail soon joins up with the Stawamus Chief Trail, an excellent, if often very busy, trail in it’s own right. In fact, if you haven’t done ‘The Chief’ it is highly recommended, rising 600+m from sea level to the top of the massive granite rock face overlooking Howe Sound and Squamish. Following this well-worn path, our trail soon splits right and follows the Upper Shannon Falls trail. A viewpoint opens upon slabs of rock, just below the gondola line itself. Thinking we’re halfway there, picture taking and soaking up the view ensues. Plunging back into the forest, and a downhill grade for a spell, the trail zigzags through mossy forest, past the thundering top of Shannon Falls, and up and up some more.
Plenty of trail left to tackle, but the grades ease and the earth underfoot is less rocky and rooty than the start. Finally, an old logging road guides our gentle ascent to the viewing platform and suspension bridge. The views of Sky Pilot and Copilot Mountains are unobstructed and beautiful, and we found ourselves a lot higher and further back from the Chief than we thought. Bottom to top, this trail has 918m gain over 9.8km one way. The delicious SkyPilot NW Pale Ale from Howe Sound Brewing is a just reward at the summit, and the gondola ride back down in 10 minutes (after a sunburn-inducing 50 minute wait) had my kneecaps thanking me. Back to our East Van home in an hour, this is a great workout up and a fine escape into the Coast Mountains of BC.
Squamish, BC, 2014.
Vancouver Mini Maker Faire 2014
The 4th annual Vancouver Mini Maker Faire went down this past weekend at the PNE Forum in East Van. As with the previous incarnations (photos from 2011, 2012 and 2013) it was a techie/crafter/artist/inventor’s wonderland of innovation and possibility. I was particularly drawn to something quite lo-fi — the stunning 5′ x 12′ Tapestry of Vancouver by Canadian fibre artist Sola Fiedler. This piece, a woven aerial view of the city of Vancouver, took five years to make and was unveiled at this year’s Faire. From afar, it looked like a giga-pixel image – very high-res and immaculate in detail. Getting closer you realize this is made from material, and then you learn it’s woven using recycled wool sweaters. Wow! I hope this piece goes on public display for everyone to enjoy, it’s incredible.
Other highlights were the sweetly hypnotic sounds of Gamelan Bike Bike, a musical recycling project that turns old bikes into musical instruments. The sound was sublime, perfect for a summer afternoon. Prosthesis, the Anti-Robot, is looking more menacing and much further along in development from last year. They are actively crowd-funding for this two-storey tall, human-controlled, electric walking (and racing!) robot. Yes, it’s very cool to behold. Titanoboa slithered though the grounds, frightening some children along the way. What’s really frightening, is this 50-ft robot is a replica based on a real snake skeleton from 60+ million years ago. There were some sweet bicycle sound systems (ready for Bike Rave in July); 3D printer, drones and laser cutting demonstrations galore; miniature puppy robots and steampunk fixins; modern quilters; handmade crafts of all kinds and much more. It’s a family affair with the adults getting as much joy (maybe more!) from exploration as the kids. If you’re wondering what the future has in store, this is a good place to start asking some questions.
Vancouver, 2014.
(click the first image below to view all large – recommended!)
You can also check out the full set of images on my Flickr right here.
A Visit to Kloster Andechs
I recently had six days to explore Bavaria and the Tyrol regions of Germany, Austria and Italy. It was just a wee taste, there is no doubt I will return here to get deeper and experience more of the mountain life these areas are known for. Absolutely breathtaking scenery, extraordinarily warm people and a general sense of ‘coziness’ I’ll elaborate on later. It felt like it could be home in a way, with familiar foods and decor thanks to my grandparents’ influence living in the region before migrating to Canada (and bringing a little bit of Bavaria with them).
I was on a magazine assignment in the western parts of Germany near Dortmund and once finished, took a high-speed train south to Munich to meet my friend Nadin Brendel. Nadin runs a great site called Munich and the Mountains, and we share passions for music, peaks and wild places. Being German herself, she was the bridge between cultures for me and as such we had an easy time getting by and learning more about the area. After renting a car and navigating out of town, our first stop was Kloster Andechs — a renowned Benedictine Abbey producing some of the world’s finest beer since 1455 at their adjacent Klosterbrauerei. A storm was just passing and the light was changing rapidly, casting golden glows, then a purple tint over the valley. Views from atop the ‘Holy Mountain’ revealed the cute town below and more storm clouds on the horizon.
With the wet weather, the beer gardens were closed, so inside we went for some samples in the common beer hall. I opted for the Doppelbock Dunkel, while Nadin tried their Radler. We were a little hungry, so in came a cold plate of food — a massive pretzel, strong hard cheese, sausage slices, white onions and a delicious soft cheese spread called Obatzda. Adjacent to us was the house table where a family brought their own spread of food and across the room was the Stammtisch – a German word for ‘regular’s table’ where friends of the house gather to discuss village news, politics, sport and such. Another fine place to bring your own dinner, patrons here had tupperware containers of stew and meats alongside their Maßkrug – the 1L stein of beer. No, it’s not just tourists who drink the 1L beers! A cage containing individual locked-up steins sits in a second hall; personalized mugs of all sizes safely stored until the owner makes their next trip up the hill for a fill.
I can safely say the Doppelbock Dunkel was one of the finest beers I’ve ever tried (and I go out of my way to try new beer). The depth and drinkability was apparent in the centuries old recipe. Worth another trip just for that! Luckily, on my last day in Munich I came across the Andechs ‘pub’ and had another one for the road. With the light fading and our way down darkening, we said Auf Wiedersehen to Andechs, to return again someday soon with sun overhead and Doppelbock in the belly. Next stop, the foothills of the Alps…
Andechs, Bavaria, Germany, 2014.
(click the first image below to view large – recommended!)
Imminent Departure
It’s summer – get on your bike and ride! Ding, ding…now departing from the Land of the Woods, Vancouver.
Meeting Fires Creative 